An Official Publication of Property Services. Volume 1,No. 1
I have been asked to answer all the typical questions our homeowner tenants would have this time of the year on getting their lawns back in shape after the long dry summer. Probably the first thing I should do is go over the major problems just about everyone always has with lawns and many times they do not always receive the right advice at the local stores. When we understand the problem we already have 80% of the answer.
Shade- If we were to walk around the yard and observe shaded areas, we would find on the average about 20% of the lawn is shaded from trees, shrubs or structures. This shade represents a reduction of light at least 50% or more.
Shade effects lawns by:
 | reducing light intensity |
| temperatures are moderated |
| wind movement is restricted |
| relative humidity is increased |
| most important the lawn has to compete with tree roots for water and plant nutrients. |
This last item can well be proven by just looking at the lawn growing between two buildings located close to each other producing a large amount of shade, but the lawn seems to do well on its own.
If shading is extreme, it is necessary to eliminate some of the shade by pruning or removing unnecessary trees or limbs. Prune lower tree limb growth (sucker shoots) which are unnecessary since the crown of the tree makes the shape of the tree. Also, thin or cut back the far outside limb tips of the tree crown, simply said you are tightening the shape up. If the trees are large, I would seek the help of a professional but under no circumstances should you hire a tree professional without having proof of their insurance. If you do not wish to prune, then accept the fact that grass can not grow in that area and prepare to use other plants such as ground cover or even a mulch of some sort. If the shading is not to extreme, less than 40%, then here in Richmond a blend of red fescue, tall fescues and perennial ryes might be the solution.
The best time to seed is late summer and early fall. If you are reading this in the mid fall, you will need better soil preparation for faster grass germination. Fertilization is important both for seed germination and continuous feeding due to tree roots taking the nutrients away. Watering deeply but do not let the area stay soggy/wet.
Steep slopes--Remember when seeding or overseeding as well as applying lime and fertilizers on a sloping lawn that much can be washed away. Also on slopes with southern exposure, high temperatures can destroy the turf.
Rates of fertilizers and lime should be lighter but applied more often. Frequent watering keeps slopes with southern exposure cool. Spiking or aeration of the slope will reduce the washing of fertilizers and run off water. For extreme slopes, it is more practical to use retaining walls or ground cover plants.
Moss--Lack of fertility is the most common cause of moss in a lawn. Also poor drainage, soil acidity, improper watering, too much shade and soil compaction. If moss gets established, remove it by racking and treat the areas with ammonium sulfate or copper sulfate (available at garden centers). Ammonium sulfate can be applied in concentrated form when the moss is wet. Do not water after applying. Copper sulfate is mixed with water according to directions.
Soil Compaction--Soils of poor condition and subjected to heavy wear may form an impervious layer at the surface which prevents water infiltration, nutrient penetration and gaseous exchange between the soil and the atmosphere. When your lawn is under these conditions, the grass tends to thin out and is quickly replaced by weeds. The clay soil which we have here in Richmond easily compacts with just normal rains, or snow and light foot wear. Aerification, also called coring or hole punching, is a process much needed in our area once or twice a year for proper growing conditions of healthy lawns.
The problems just discussed are Richmond's biggest problems in growing good lawns. If any of these lawn problems exist at your home, steps must be taken before continuing on in the planting or replanting of your lawn.